How is canyoneering rope made? How strong is canyoneering rope?

We encourage you to watch the ATS produced film below from a trip to the Sterling Rope Company’s factory in Biddeford, Maine. Sterling Rope Co. is the industry leader in producing rope and sewn products for canyoneering.

This video shows the process for construction of a climbing rope, but the same process holds true for canyoneering ropes, just with a different sheath fiber and braid pattern. Most canyoneering ropes contain a Technora or Polyester sheath. Technora is a para-aramid fiber in the same family as Kevlar and Twaron. Para-aramids have an outstanding strength-to-weight ration. You have probably heard of Kevlar before and know of it as the material that protects people from bullets. In the same manner, technora does a great job protecting canyon ropes from bullets sharp edges and other forms of abrasion.

“Off the spool” Canyoneering Rope Strengths:
TPR: 5703 pounds
HTP: 5058 pounds
Canyon Tech: 6655 pounds
Canyon IV: 4652 pounds

We specify “off the spool” strength because as soon as you tie knots and hitches into your rope, the overall strength begins to diminish. (see %’s below)

How should I store my rope?
Store your rope in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Inspect your rope after each use for core shots and impacted sheath strands.

How should I clean my rope?
Use “rope wash” or a mild soap mixed in water. Or, just rinse off your rope. Canyoneering rope is designed to get wet so a good spray will usually do the trick.

Is my rope safe if it is fuzzing up?
Yes. As the technora and polyester sheath on a canyoneering rope wears away, you will begin to see fuzzy parts of the rope. If the rope has been used correctly (e.g. not towing a car), then it is considered safe to use until the core is exposed (core shot). At that point, you can either retire the rope by cutting it up and throwing it away, or you can tape the core shot and cut it out of the rope. Obviously, the durability where the fuzz occurs has begin to decrease so care should be taken to keep that section from running directly over sharp edges.

If I run out of webbing in a canyon, can I use my rope as an anchor?
Absolutely. Rope is very strong as illustrated above. You can cut your rope up all you want if the situation should arise. Be aware that without tape, your rope will likely fuzz out at the end.

How much strength does my rope lose when I tie it into a knot or hitch?
NO Knot 0%
Double Fisherman’s 30%%
Bowline 25%%
Water Knot 40%%
Figure 8 25%
Clove Hitch 40%
Fisherman’s 40%
Overhand 40%


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Flash floods are a rapid flooding of a low-lying area such as a canyon. In the deserts of Utah, flash floods are especially dangerous as they bring a tremendous amount of rocks, sticks, boulders, and trees down the canyon with the water. Flash floods can occur even when there are no discernible clouds in the sky as canyons can have watersheds that gather water from distant storms miles and miles away.

Signs a Flash Flood may be approaching:
-Clouds building and/or thunder
-Rising water levels
-Water changing from clear to muddy
-A roar sound emanating from up canyon

If any of these signs occur, you should seek higher ground immediately. Furthermore, you should be vigilant to any egresses from a canyon you can find during your descent. Be especially aware of the weather forecast should you be planning a canyon descent.

NOAA has a fairly accurate weather service which the NPS uses for their forecasts. NOAA

The “What is Canyoneering?” chapter which covers flash flooding in a canyon with an emphasis on tropical canyon descents:

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In the US the sport is called Canyoneering.

In Europe and European influenced countries it is referred to as Canyoning.

In Africa, they call it Kloofing.

In Japan, they refer to it as River Tracing.

Canyoneering, Canyoning, Kloofing, River Tracing, whatever you choose to call it, is the action of exploring a canyon. The term Canyoneering in the United States stems from the same descriptive mentality as mountaineering or pioneering… we are a nation of “eering’s”.

Thousands of years ago, Native Americans found shelter, food, and refuge in the deep granite and sandstone canyons of America, blazing narrow exposed routes up and down these rock faces. In the Southern California desert, natives would live at the base of the canyons enjoying the lower elevations and warm winter sunshine living off the food, fish, water and material (wood) the canyons provided. In the Summer, as the valley temperatures began to rise, the tribes would move their camps “up canyon” to the higher and more cool elevations of the mountain tops. There, they could enjoy the same abundant life and energy the canyon routes supplied the tribes in the valleys below. As our nation grew under the direction of European explorers and early American settlers, the canyons became a life giving and protecting resource to Native Americans as the steep walls and difficult to navigate water courses offered the natives an easy place to live, hide, and defend themselves from attackers.

Early explorers and settlers found themselves deep within maze like canyons of the southwest as they sought passage through the rugged desert. Basic techniques for ascending and descending began to develop. Ropes and anchors became a necessity for any traveler who intended to cross these lands. The Colorado Plateau is home to some of the most unique, narrow and dangerous slot canyons the world has ever seen. Mormon settlers seeking asylum and early gold rush enthusiasts traveling out west quickly established routes through this amazing land, opening up the beginnings of economic structure and permanent settlement of areas that are today major cities, e.g. Salt Lake City, San Francisco, Phoenix, etc… Before the establishment of these basic canyon routes, travelers would have to go south for many miles to reach their final destination of the west coast, or take an even longer boat ride around the tip of South America.

As the years raced by, roads and highways became the major thoroughfares, leaving the canyon routes abandoned with the exception of the occasional group of adventurers exploring their own backyard. Modern canyoneering got its technological start as the advent of mountaineering and rock climbing equipment got underway in the early 1960’s. As the reputation of the people partaking in these vertical adventure risk sports shifted from the public view of “insane people with a death wish” and became “my child’s school has a climbing wall” & “this sport is pretty cool” other applications for this equipment was considered. The first recognized established routes in America focused primarily on Zion National Park and the surrounding slot canyons of the Southwest including Moab and the San Rafael Swell. Documented descents exist from the late 1960’s, with more technical route descriptions appearing in the late 1980’s. Outside of Zion, in America, canyoneering routes appeared sporadically, and didn’t reach a tipping point in Los Angeles until the mid-1990’s, when the beauty of the San Gabriel canyons was discovered by a local named Chris Brennen.

Canyoneering is a unique sport on many levels. Contemporarily, one of the traits that distinguishes canyoneering from other outdoor disciplines is that at the same time this sport was growing, so was a new form of communication – the world wide web. The immediate access of information has allowed route descriptions, techniques, ethics, gear, even videos of canyon descents to be shared literally instantly around the globe. Although the negative affects of this are obvious – misinformation, character attacks, etc…- the pros definitely outweigh the cons. Online communities have developed allowing one to find trip partners, plan events, and share beta. Where rock climbing grew up over a period of 80 years, canyoneering has appeared almost overnight in less than 10. This unique ability to exchange information will continue to affect the evolution of this amazing sport in the years to come.

According to Websters Dictionary, canyoning (n.) is a sport which involves jumping into a mountain stream which is flowing very fast and being carried down the stream while you float on your back. Using this as a sole definition would be a profound disservice to the sport. Canyoneering can range from a simple trail hike up or down a local canyon bottom all the way to the extreme commitment of an unexplored canyon route in a distant land with no support. Technical equipment used for canyoneering includes: ropes, harnesses, protection needed to set rappel anchors, carabiners to build rope systems, packs designed to get wet or be submerged, and layering systems designed to protect from severe abrasion, water, heat and cold.

Canyoneering shares only a few similarities with rock climbing. The use of harnesses and ropes is an obvious connection, but after that, everything changes. The methods, mindsets, and equipment needed to safely descend a technical canyon route are far from any systems that a rock climber would ever use. In fact, every single piece of equipment used for canyoneering is unique. Today’s equipment manufacturers continue to design gear specifically for canyoneering. As this lifestyle sport continues to come of age, we are going to continue to see an increasing difference between the gear used for other outdoor disciplines and what is mandated by emerging canyon leaders.

In his book, “The Tipping Point”, Malcom Gladwell summarizes a theory that small things can make a big difference on a societal level. Rather, that there exists a “tipping point” for which change over time goes from the individual level to a mass collective level. Although, it is difficult to identify the exact moment when this occurs, there are hints to suggest when a process has reached its own inflection point. It is believed by some that the sport of canyoneering is currently experiencing its own tipping point on a local and global scale. The fifth largest urban center in the world, Los Angeles, is bordered on its north by one of the fastest growing mountain ranges on the planet, the San Gabriels. These astonishly tall mountains accelerate from sea level to over 10,000 feet in height in just a few miles. Being in one of most seismically active zones, this range is also one of the fastest eroding on the planet. It was here, in 1999, that a company named Alpine Training Services, “ATS”, first setup shop. Partnering up with a $500 million outdoor retail chain, Sport Chalet, allowed ATS to expand at an exponential rate – radio ads, newspaper ads, & multimedia presentations were able to show the over 17 million population of Los Angeles the beauty and wonder of rappelling down waterfalls, swimming through pools, and hiking down stream beds inaccessible any other way. As innovation goes, ATS developed what is now commonly referred to as the WCCM or West Coast Canyoneering Method. This methodology is grounded in the generational experience of canyoneer’s around the world. Influences on the WCCM include canyon associations and schools worldwide in both what to do and what not to do. Beyond this, ATS has worked with a variety of gear companies to develop new technologies for the sport. Some examples include the Chain Reactor and Canyon Tech Rope by Sterling Rope. ATS has also worked with various Search and Rescue agencies to improve upon canyon rescue tactics with training sessions occuring throughout the Southwest United States. Taking advantage of new technologies, ATS began offering instructional and adventure based video podcasts. This exposure has allowed ATS to emerge as leaders in the sport of canyoneering in the United States. To show solidarity and leadership, ATS has developed environmental initiatives with local and national authorities to continue to show the canyons and Earth the respect they deserve going so far to become a One Earth Partner. In addition, ATS continues to set new standards for safety in the canyon environment, creating redundant systems with nearly zero room for failure.

Concurrently, there is still a lot of room for improvement on both the mental and technological sides of canyoneering in order to create a safer & more responsible canyon program globally. As this sport comes of age in this era of global communication, it is important to keep our feet firmly planted. Only with a global communication collective can we establish necessary safety and environmental standards. As we learn from the poor decisions of others before us, and grow successfully from the good decisions of those around us, canyoneering can become an activity for every member of society to enjoy, young and old alike. The physical requirements to complete a canyoneering course are far less stringent than those of rock climbing or mountaineering. Due to this, we have seen a hundred times increase in the last five years of people taking canyoneering courses and getting out there on their own to enjoy new and exciting canyon routes. As routes spring up around the globe – China, South America, Hawaii, Thailand, Africa, we are reminded of how one simple thing can unite us all. Canyoneering brings us ever closer to nature, reminds us of our humanity, celebrates the clarity of living in the moment.

As John Muir put it so well, “tug on anything and you’ll find it connected to everything else in the universe”.

Now that you’ve read this essay, you might be wondering about the sport beyond ATS. The oldest canyoneering companies in the United States started in the late 90′s in Utah. Outside of Utah’s beautiful slots, ATS is the only company in the United States offering an expansive curricular based in-canyon canyoneering school.

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The Facts on the Oak
Information gathered from the Poison Ivy, Oak, and Sumac Information Center
* Only 1 nanogram (billionth of a gram) needed to cause rash
* Average is 100 nanograms for most people
* 1/4 ounce of urushiol is all that is needed to cause a rash in every person on earth
* 500 people could itch from the amount covering the head of a pin
* Specimens of urushiol several centuries old have found to cause dermatitis in sensitive people.
* 1 to 5 years is normal for urushiol oil to stay active on any surface including dead plants
* Derived from urushi, Japanese name for lacquer

When the Japanese restored the gold leaf on the golden Temple in Kyoto, they painted the urushiol lacquer on it to preserve and maintain the gold. Guess you could say that you would be caught red handed if you stole it.

Poison Ivy, Oak, and Sumac
* Most common allergy in the country claiming half the population
* Sensitivity to urushiol can develop at any time
* Solutions or cures are those that annihilate urushiol
* Everyone appears to react slightly different to all the remedies.
* Covered by workers compensation in some states (CA, for example)
* First published records of poison ivy in North America date back to 1600s
* Poison Ivy coined by Captain John Smith in 1609
* Western Poison Oak discovered by David Douglas (1799-1834) on Vancouver Island. Douglas fir also named after him.
* People will serious deficiency in cellular (T-cell) immunity such as AIDS patients may not have problems with dermatitis.

Myths vs. Facts

Myth: Poison Ivy rash is contagious. Fact: Rubbing the rashes won’t spread poison ivy to other parts of your body (or to another person). You spread the rash only if urushiol oil — the sticky, resinlike substance that causes the rash — has been left on your hands.

Myth: You can catch poison ivy simply by being near the plants. Fact: Direct contact is needed to release urusiol oil. Stay away from forest fires, direct burning, or anything else that can cause the oil to become airborne such as a lawnmower, trimmer, etc.

Myth: Leaves of three, let them be  Fact: Poison sumac has 7 to 13 leaves on a branch, although poison ivy and oak have 3 leaves per cluster.

Myth: Do not worry about dead plants Fact: Urushiol oil stays active on any surface, including dead plants, for up to 5 years.

Myth: Breaking the blisters releases urushiol oil that can spread  Fact: Not true. But your wounds can become infected and you may make the scarring worse. In very extreme cases, excessive fluid may need to be withdrawn by a doctor.

Myth: I’ve been in poison ivy many times and never broken out. I’m immune.  Fact: Not necessarily true. Upwards of 90% of people are allergic to urushiol oil, it’s a matter of time and exposure. The more times you are exposed to urushiol, the more likely it is that you will break out with an allergic rash. For the first time sufferer, it generally takes longer for the rash to show up – generally in 7 to 10 days.

Leaves o' Three, Leave them Be!

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WCCM Layering System

The WCCM Layering system refers to a clothing layering system taught by ATS for canyoneering as an alternative to wetsuits or drysuits. Canyoneering presents unique environmental conditions where you can quickly find yourself borderline hypothermia and in the next moment hyperthermic. A thought out layering system and understanding your own physiological needs will help overcome most of the risks associated with core-temperature control in a canyon environment.

Wetsuits are generally not encouraged as an “every-canyon” answer unless the canyon route being done is more water than walking (e.g. many of the canyons in Maui involve more swimming than anything else and a wetsuit can be practical there). Outside of canyons with excessive swimming, wetsuits work well in the water, but poorly out of the water where they serve more as a cooling device than an insulating layer.

Drysuits work well in a canyon environment (especially those drysuits with built-in relief zippers), however a drysuit will become useless very quickly if it suffers any tears and at times they can be too warm for hiking sections. Drysuits, especially the good ones (i.e. like ones with the aforementioned relief zipper) can be quite expensive. One of our friends who works for the U.S. Coast Guard has an excellent drysuit that retails for $3500.

The solution refined over the last ten years is a layering method based on the technical clothing which whitewater kayakers wear while pursuing their sport. It consists of:

A beanie for warmth. Although recent tests by the Wilderness Medicine Institute have shown that heat loss through the head is nothing exceptional when compared to the rest of the body, it still helps to insulate your head as an estimated 10% of body heat is lost through the scalp. The NRS Mystery Helmet Liner is recommended as the beanie element. Not only does it do a great job fitting to your head, but it keeps your helmet from riding too high and you look like a cosmonaut.
NRS Canyoneering Mystery Helmet Liner

A fleece base layer for the top and bottom. You want to search out a midweight top and bottom fleece layer. It should be a true fleece, not a nylon/spandex blend. True fleece is a special weave made from 100% polyester. Fleece offers insulating properties whether wet or dry. Fleece when wet is not considered to be insulating however if the wind is blowing, hence the need for one layer one top that is “weatherproof”. Fleece when worn in this layering system should be placed directly against the skin. Absolutely no cotton or spandex-type shirt should be worn underneath as much of the insulating properties will be lost.

A kayak top and bottom. NRS makes an excellent drytop and drypant for canyoneering. Their good tops are made from a breathable, waterproof Tri-Ton fabric and are fitted with a neoprene waistband, neck, and over-cuffs. One example would be their Flux Drytop. NRS Canyoneering Flux Drytop The drypants recommended are the Blank Rock Drypant made from a combination of rip-proof cordura and a heavy-duty denier fabric called Hypro-Tex.
NRS Canyoneering Black Rock Drypant

An insulating sock. Either a Seal Skinz Waterblocker which serves as a calf-high waterproof and durable spandex sock or for colder waters of the Sierra or New Zealand a 3-mm neoprene sock is recommended.
NRS Canyoneering Waterblocker Sock

Depending on the ambient air temperature and canyon water temperature, layers can easily and quickly be interchanged as core-temperature preference dictates. The drytop and drypant when tucked into each other and tightened down serves as a poor-man’s drysuit, but is not dependent on the integrity of the neoprene seals for comfort due to the base layers of fleece underneath. Some water transfer will inevitably occur but it will be more of a slow-leak than a shock to the body.

Alternative options for the layering system include:

Kneepads. A form-fitting soft kneepad found in most retail stores can add a level of comfort and safety to the layering system. Kneepads will serve to protect you during any accidental slips or hidden rocks underwater while walking down canyon. Kneepads also help enclose the overall layering system helping to stave off any minor water transfer that is occurring.
Canyoneering Kneepad

Anti-Gravity Top. NRS makes a unique product called the Anti-Gravity Shirt. It’s a windproof 1-mm neoprene Mystery material with 10 pounds of imbedded flotation. This is a great top for canyons with a lot of swimming but with no moving current. Note that it serves as a supplemental flotation device and should never be worn in lieu of a proper PFD. This top be worn with any of the combination of layers, but should always be placed directly on the skin.
NRS Canyoneering Anti-Gravity Shirt

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The West Coast Canyoneering Methodology (WCCM) was developed by Alpine Training Services in response to the growing need to collaborate innovative and proven technical safety systems with progressive industry related psychological training protocols. ATS combined these elements to create the safest & most effective canyoneering training protocol in the world!

Technical canyoneering originally began in Europe, but has quickly caught on in the U.S. By taking a close look at every known teaching style and safety record, one thing became inherently obvious — there had to be a better way! Understanding the multiple variables of technical canyoneering was key — the equipment, the technical applications that all lead to similar margins of safety, etc… The founders of the WCCM set out to look at the sport under a completely different light.

Psychological points of interest were the first issue to visit. We realized once the psychology of the sport was understood, the world’s technical rope and equipment systems would be subject to a new point of view. The next step was to create a system of measurement against every known existing aspect of risk management in the sport itself and related outdoor discilines such as creek boating and rock climbing. The acronym T.E.R.M. was created and became the foundation for this fresh new hybrid theory. ATS believes looking through “a new pair of glasses” will allow for a purely objective view of the sport. In turn, creating a fair assessment of what systems are good and need no adjustments versus what systems do not stand up to the “new style” delineated by T.E.R.M. As expected, through this review process, gaps became apparent where both psychology and technology had not yet bridged in in any outdoor vertical and or adventure risk activity. Designing methods to bridge these literal and theoretical gaps became the next step in the process.

We went back to the drawing board — contacting manufacturers for product development towards the sport and working with groups of outdoor professionals from other rope related & rescue disciplines. The final element of development towards the WCCM was to engage groups of outdoor professionals including psychologists, rope rescue instructors, government search & rescue training officers, swiftwater technicians and professional climbing instructors, and expose them all to our method of canyoneering and engage ourselves in this final process of discovery. The combined published results became the foundation for the final step — creating a flow chart of both technical and psychological training milestones embedded in our instructional training curriculum. This program is designed to enable a WCCM student to go from Canyoneering I: “The Beginning” to the empowered point of “Recreational Canyon Leader”, proving to be both technically and psychologically competent and accountable for themselves and for others, including other beginners. The final result was the creation of our training course program designed to move our clients along at their own pace, including free class shadowing for students of the WCCM as a C.E. (Continued Education). ATS is the first company to offer a C.E. based program. Our accomplished training methods have raised the industry standard in the U.S. which all other canyoneering schools now seek to achieve.

The end result — a higher level of efficency and effectiveness towards safety in canyoneering. Safety for the instructors, clients and end users after training including a platform for CE in similar sports. Since ATS also provides an industry standardized full service Kayaking School, Rock Climbing School and Mountaineering School each of these established disciplines now add value to the canyoneering curriculum to be known as the WCCM.

The founder of ATS, Darren Jeffrey comments on the innovative process:

The lack of thought and continuity between the technical and psychological training methods, especially in Europe, always fascinated me. With well over 20 years of personal climbing and canyoneering experiences, and hundreds of hours of professional training from various organizations, canyoneering continues to impress me as the most technically challenging vertical adventure risk sport. That being said, the physical limitations are much less than the limitations of other vertical adventure sports such as mountaineering or rock climbing. Coupled with the internet and real time information that the climbing world did not have in its’ beginning, we have a “super nuke” of a sport on our hands. In the end, this means more people can and will get the training and be out there on their own. Which in a short time has created a sport that has potential to grow larger and faster than climbing could or did. Canyoneering faces the same issues as climbing does. Access being of top concern, anchors, styles and ethics etc. If we are wise we will learn the short cuts through these issues and not have to relive the pains of the past!

Here is a simple outline covering a few of the psychological safety points of the West Coast Canyoneering Methodology.

Safety: Understanding T.E.R.M. and its’ dynamic applications.
Accountability: Understanding personal motive.
Awareness: Understanding what is happening with you and with others.
Communication: Learning the value of effective and efficient communication.
Control: Identifying and utilizing the proper technical systems for each obstacle. e.g. short roping and setting a tagline in deepwater or currents.
Training: Creating a venue for existing skillsets to be expanded including C.E. e.g. we offer free course shadowing for all canyon classes.
Teaching: Empowering WCCM students to pass on this methodology to others. e.g. part of our Recreational Trip Leader class is to have C-VI students work with actual beginners under close ATS supervision as guest helpers for C-I programs.
Becoming trained in the WCCM will build technical competency and core mental confidence, creating a well rounded canyoneer capable of having a knowledgeable response to any situation as it arises.

Alpine Training Services has a dedicated instructional canyoneering program which includes direct training, written field evaluations, a student text book, dozens of tracked “homework” based canyon days all undercut with our industry leading free class shadowing program and assigned mentor training. All of these features are designed to empower our clients to get trained, and be out there enjoying the canyons of the world as often as possible!

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WCCM Canyoneering Rating and Difficulty System

As canyoneering continues to grow in popularity the need for a difficulty rating system has emerged just as it did for rock climbers years ago. ATS has developed a methodology for canyoneering called the West Coast Canyoneering Method or WCCM. The WCCM is a make up of existing traditional approaches and evolved techniques and systems combined. The need to expand on the existing rating system is based on the wider range and types of canyon routes being established now compared to the desert type “slot canyons” that stereotyped the image of the sport in the early days. Desert canyons are quickly becoming just a small part of the established canyon routes nationally and worldwide. ATS has been a component for the pioneering and establishing of routes across the west coast including the Sierra Nevada range, Arizona, Southern California desert and mountain regions, and Hawaii. The WCCM rating system was conceived in the early 2000′s as an evolution of the popular Yosemite Decimal System that rock climbers currently use to grade routes in the United States. Although there are several rating systems in use in the United States for climbers (YDS, Alaskan), the Yosemite Decimal System continues to be the preferred choice. As such, ATS felt it would be a natural and uncomplicated step to have a comparable rating system for canyoneers to use.

As with all types of rating systems, this one is designed to assist a group and its leaders in assessing and matching the skill levels of each canyon descent member against the obstacles in the canyon. Never rely solely on a canyon difficulty rating or a route description as routes change and the perception of the individual’s establishing and rating the route may be different than your own. In addition, there are multiple ratings systems in use for canyoneering around the globe that all share similarities, but posses key differences.  Do your homework on which rating system you are using, talk with folks who have recently done the route using message boards, call or e-mail an instructor or guide to verify conditions and ratings. Information is virtually non-exhaustive. A good canyon leader will do everything in his or her power to become and stay informed to past, current and expected conditions. Due diligence is only a small part of this puzzle. Professional training, proper equipment, group size management, mindsets, time of year, etc… are all contributing factors for success or failure. Be safe and then have fun!

Canyon Classifications:

Class 1: A canyon that can be traveled in either direction (i.e. up or down) and most times of the year, usually along a streambed on an established trail. No commitment, no real exposure to water, no technical gear required.

Class 2: Again a non-committing canyon which can be traveled in either direction, mostly “off trail hiking” with some route finding skills needed to possibly stay dry or skirt larger obstacles. No technical equipment needed.

Class 3: Again a canyon route that can be traveled in either direction. Substantial route finding and climbing / boulder hopping skills needed to ascend or descend. Deep wades, small swims may be possible along with exposed down climbs followed by additional sections of class 2. A group harness and small rope may be a smart item to bring in the event of an injury.

Class 4: A committing and technical canyon route to be descended with various specialized rope systems, down climbing, swimming, deep wades along with teamwork skills. Typically once the rope is recovered form the first rappel the group is committed to a “descent only” egress. A serious approach to Time Energy and Risk management is necessary. Special attention to layering systems as often exposure to cold water is unavoidable.

Class 5: An extremely committing canyon route with all the tributes of a class 4 canyon route combined with the additional skillsets needed for lead and aid climbing. Technical pothole escapes, tricky lead climbs for egress, or any other difficult obstacle that would require the use of climbing and belaying skills. A class 5 canyon is an expert canyon usually attempted by a smaller group of competent canyoneer’s.

The Water Ratings:

Water or flow rates vary from canyon to canyon, time to time, storm to storm and year to year! Calling a canyon class “C” because there is water flowing through it is too vague for our standards! Detailing a canyon by any amount of water flow should be done on more of a case by case. Our water flow rating system is a conditional measurement. Not a set rating!

Class A: Virtually dry conditions. (“Seasonal” pools of water may exist)

Class B: Minor to moderate water flow rates with deep wades and or swims.

Class C*: Heavy flow rates. Class “C” conditions have difficult and dangerous hydraulic scenarios. Strong swimming skills and rope setting skills needed to safely negotiate the watercourse.

*Note: For a route to qualify as a class “C” canyon it must posses at the time of descent hazardous currents that a leader must swim against to set up swift water or class “C” rope systems. The amount of CFS running in a canyon is not an indicator of a class “C” as every canyon has the capacity to drain water at different levels. If you are swimming, the route is not necessarily a class “C” conditional rating by default.

Class F: A canyon that has been exposed to fire. Mud slides, rock fall, burned out root systems of trees and bushes, debris dams make for a dangerous condition. See many routes in Southern California as regular examples.

A class “A” canyon can become class “C” during a heavy rain, a class “C” canyon can become class “A” during a drought. Water flow ratings are so variable that they should only serve as part of your initial size up of the route. If you don’t have swiftwater skills, stay away from faster moving water filled canyon routes until you have received proper training. It only takes a small amount of water set with the perfect canyon topographical conditions to create a water hazard by definition. Use good judgment!

Time Commitment Ratings:

Grade I: Short roadside classics. 1-2 hours

Grade II: 2-4 hours

Grade III: Solid half day 5-7 hours

Grade IV: Long day 8-12 hours. Usually depending on group size, conditions and speed

Grade V: Two-day canyon, Bring more Red Bull!

Grade VI: A hypothetical rating for more than two days. Usually at this point the canyon crew will be aware of the canyon length and will have made all the necessary related decisions to manage the canyon T.E.R.M’s.

Danger Ratings:

Danger ratings are again hypothetical. It can be argued that any canyon could have sections of “R” or “X” ratings. True, but here we are talking about “unavoidable scenarios” the difference between a mandatory jump and not mandatory may be the lack of suitable anchor, etc… Body belays may protect the majority of the group but not the last one down. These ratings are simply designed to encourage the canyoneer to look deeper into the demands of the route. A danger rating describes unmanageable risks such as known hydraulic features, necessary jumps or dangerous slides.

R: A mistake at the wrong place or time will result in an unavoidable injury.
X: A mistake at the wrong place or time will result in an unavoidable death.

Example Ratings:

Class 3-B-III
Non committing, Wet, half day scramble

Class 4-C-V-R
Committing, Heavy water flow & current, Two day canyon with possible unavoidable hazards such as mandatory jumps, slides or swims

Class 5-C-VI-X
A committed advanced canyon route with heavy water flow & current, lead climbing required for egress or pothole escapes, multi-day with the possibility of unavoidable deadly obstacles or hazards

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Class:
3BIII

Gear:
Rope: 1 @ 200’, 2 @ 120′, 45′ of webbing, steel rappel rings,Tree anchors at each drop but be prepared to build alternative natural anchors. Self rescue and group rescue gear with head lamps.

Expected Time Commitment:
Car to car for a small solid team 6 hours on high water days

Technical Obstacles:
4 long rappel directly in the water course.

Non Technical Obstacles:
Some Poison oak, snakes, loose rock & steep earth slope hikes between rappels.
–> Wilderness Permit required (not the same as parking permit). Must obtain from a ranger’s station to be allowed to go past the wilderness sign mentioned below. If you hike up without one and a ranger is coming down, they *will* stop you.

Recommended Time of Year:
Year round minus cold winter days or heavy rains or run off periods.

Finding the Trail Head:
Head east on I-10 E., 2.7 mi
Take the University St exit., 0.3 mi
Turn left at N University St., 1.0 mi
Turn right at E Lugonia Ave., 1.6 mi
Continue on Mentone Blvd., 2.0 mi
Continue on CA-38/Mill Creek Rd
Continue to follow CA-38., 9.4 mi
Slight right at Valley of the Falls Dr., 4.2 mi
Turn left at Falls Campground Rd., 0.3 mi
Turn left to stay on Falls Campground Rd., 0.4 mi
Drive up through Forest Falls to the end of the road where there is trailhead parking for the Vivian Creek Trail.

The Approach:
From the parking area hike east along the well-marked Vivian Creek Trail following the south bank of Mill Creek. After about 0.5mi the trail crosses the Mill Creek Wash; cross the wash and follow the trail as it switchbacks up the north wall of Mill Creek. The climb is steep and unrelenting but eventually begins to ease as you pass the sign entering the San Gorgonio Wilderness Area. Just a few minutes later the trail approaches the east bank of Vivian Creek and you have reached the drop-in point. About a 1 hour hike.

The Canyon Descent:
#1 160′
# Optional 25′ rappel off tree anchor, or steep scree slope descent in gully on left
#2 90′
#3 70′
#4 120′

Egress:
From the base of the last falls hike down stream back to Mill Creek. Cross Mill Creek and head back to the car park.

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Class:
3A/BIII

Gear:
Rope: 2 @ 120’, 2 @ 60′, 30 of webbing, steel rappel rings,Tree anchors at each drop but be prepared to build alternative natural anchors. Self rescue and group rescue gear with head lamps

Expected Time Commitment:
Car to car for a small solid team 6 hours on high water days

Technical Obstacles:
6 long rappels directly in the water course.

Non Technical Obstacles:
Some Poison oak, snakes, loose rock & steep earth slope approach with some route finding challenges. About 3 miles of hiking total.

Recommended Time of Year:
Year round minus heavy rains or run off periods.

Finding the Trail Head:
The hike requires a car shuttle. Drive both vehicles up the Angeles Crest Highway from La Canada/Flintridge past the junction at Clear Creek and the Switzer Parking Area. Two miles beyond the Switzer Camp turnoff, the road makes a long sweeping turn to the left. At the start of this turn on the right side of the road there is a white metal gate where you will emerge at the conclusion of this hike (at 34o15.65′N 118o6.96′W and elevation 4010ft). Turn one vehicle around and leave it in one of the turnouts just before the gate and bend. From this parking area you can look south directly up at the sandstone walls of Supercloud. It looks very difficult from this viewpoint.

Then, in the other vehicle, proceed on up the road to Red Box Junction and turn right onto the Mount Wilson road. A short distance (0.4mi) beyond Red Box, a gated asphalt road (2N52) switchbacks up to the right. Drive a few yards up this road to the parking area before the gate.

The Approach:
From the parking area, proceed past the metal gate and hike up the asphalt road, 2N52, passing above Red Box junction. After 20min and 0.7mi you reach the first hairpin turn to the left (and the drop-in point for a different hike down Cloudburst Canyon which is on your right). Continuing on up the road, 1.7mi and 45min from the start you arrive at a second hairpin turn to the left at an elevation of 5450ft. Just past the apex of this turn a broad trail or former fire road (with a small dirt berm across the entrance) branches off to the right. Follow the remains of this old dirt road as it contours off to the west below the ridge west of Mount Disappointment. Do not drop down into the canyon that you cross about 0.1mi from the asphalt road since it connects with Cloudburst Canyon. Instead continue on along the faint dirt road; about 0.3mi from the asphalt (1hr from the start) the dirt road ends; an animal trail continues to contour around the heads of Supercloud Canyon but you will drop into Supercloud here by proceeding straight down the steep slope at the end of the dirt road. Though steep the descent is quite easy since the surface is relatively fine sand and earth. Veer to the right into the bottom of the gully that soon turns toward the west.

The Canyon Descent:
#1 60′
#2 80′
#3 35′
#4 60′
#5 40′
#6 110′
Follow the stream bed down canyon until you reach the second of two debris damns which can be down climbed on the left. keep you eye out for a fire road that will cross the stream bed twice. At the second crossing take this road to the right and follow it back to your car first parked car.

Pick up some trash on the way out as this is a popular spot for weekenders.

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Class:
4B/CIII

Gear:
Rope: 3 @ 120′ ropes, 40′ of webbing, steel rappel rings. Mix of trees and bolted anchors at each drop but be prepared to build alternative natural anchors. Self rescue and group rescue gear with head lamps. Very cold water combined with afternoon clouds and shade can create hypothermic conditions. Take warm fleece in a dry bag.

Expected Time Commitment:
Car to car for a small solid team 8-9 hours on high water days

Technical Obstacles:
5 rappels directly in the water course.

Non Technical Obstacles:
Some Poison oak, snakes, stinging nettle, loose rock & steep earth slope approach with some route finding challenges.

Recommended Time of Year:
Spring, Winter, Fall, Summer

Finding the Trail Head:
Travel I- 15 North of Rancho Cucamonga. Exit Sierra and go towards the mountains. (Hit the Del Taco on your way up.)
Head northwest on Sierra Ave toward Lytle Creek Rd. – 0.2 mi., Continue straight onto Lytle Creek Rd. – 6.1 mi., Turn left at Middle Fork Rd. – 1.3 mi. Follow the dirt road up until it ends.

The Approach:
Get into hiking mode for this 2 mile back country approach. Follow the trail to the first stream crossing. Cross the stream and follow the now faint trial as it works its way up stream then gradually breaks away form the middle fork and begins to climb a steep draw by way of a six or so long switch backs. After the switch backs end the trail will round a corner where one of the five water falls can be seen, follow the trial a bit further and begin looking for a steep earth slope to dirt ski your way down putting you into the canyon bottom (approx N34 14.93 W117 34.58). Make your way down canyon following the water until you reach the first waterfall to be down climbed. After the down climb you will find an area to change into your canyon gear and prepare for the technical descent.

The Canyon Descent:
#1 45’ Find a bolted anchor in the wall canyon left at the top of the first drop.
#2 110’ Find an old bolt at the lip of a small deep pool at the top of number 2 or natural webbing anchor around a large tree at the top.
20 minute hike through canyon bottom, including large amounts of downed trees due to avalanche
#3 90’ Find a bolt canyon right at the lip, drops into pool which can be deep
#4 90’ Find twin bolts canyon right
#5 110’ find a bolt at the lip of number 5. An option to use the trees canyon right exists. Watch for rock fall if you choose this option.

This is a Wilderness canyon so you must obtain wilderness use permits from the Lytle Creek Ranger Station.

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